This page, and the FAQ’s, are strictly for suggested ways to fix your equipment. They are not intended to be absolute. The user/buyer of the FAQ’s and new gears are solely responsible for any damage or accuracy that may occur to their property. If you are not sure how to take something a part, ask on the many car boards that are available. The user has to keep his eyes open and use common sense.
Part 1 – Removing the Instrument Cluster to get to the Odometer Gears.
Tools Needed:
Small 7MM Socket Wrench
Large Screwdriver
Small Screwdriver
Removing the Instrument Panel or Cluster: The removal of the Instrument Cluster is a very delicate job. You should take care and patience when performing this task. If you work through this fast you may run the risk of breaking something and then have another replacement on your hands. The replacement procedure is very detailed, so make sure you follow each step thoroughly. Good luck. Pictures attached will detail the steps as you go along. Some of these details are taken directly from the Saturn Service Manual Body/Collision Repair Section Page 476. If you have not done this before; plan on at least 2 hours total to get Part 1 of this procedure complete. Your time may vary based on experience with working on your car; and how your car parts behave to being removed. The procedure in the following photos was performed on a 1991 Saturn SC. The interior of your car may be similar or different; these photos are to show you the procedure in fixing your vehicle. These photos are for educational purpose.
1. Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
2. Remove the bottom Left and Right Covers underneath the Middle Console Panel.
3. Tilt your Steering Wheel down to its lowest position. This step will come in handy later on in removal of the Instrument Cluster.
4. Open both front doors of your vehicle (Coupe or Sedan) all the way; and prop them open if you need to.
5. Remove your Center Trim Bezel. 2 pop outs on the bottom with your large flathead screwdriver and three pop outs on the top; and you have removed this piece all together.
6. Next, with your small screwdriver: Pry up the retaining clips on both sides of the dash. Using your smaller flathead screwdriver will yield the removal quicker. These are hard plastic pieces and will come up fairly quick to reveal two more 7 MM bolts; one on each side of the dash.
7. Undo the 7MM bolts. You should now be able to lift out the upper part of the dash.
8. Gently pry up on the upper part of the dash with your larger flathead screwdriver. There are 6 retaining clips that run across the front upper part of the upper dash. Pry carefully. Again you will hear a lot of loud crunching. The retaining clips will give way after some gentle tugging with hand and screwdriver. Some retaining clips will remain. Do not be alarmed as these will work their way back together on re-assembly.
9. Remove the 4 remaining 7MM Bolts that are holding the Instrument Cluster in place.
12. Once these 4 retaining 7MM Bolts are removed you are ready to pull up on the instrument panel cluster bezel. Be careful! Your light dimmer switch on the left and Rear Defrost switch are still connected!!! If you pull too quickly you run the risk of separating wires. There are Green pin connectors (plastic bar/retainer)that need to first be removed with your smaller flathead screwdriver. Once you have the Green pin connector free, squeeze on the remaining pins to remove the electrical connection for each electrical connection. This step can be tricky especially since the Light dimmer switch is surrounded by a half rectangular metal casing; and the wires for both switches are fairly short.
13. Begin removing the last 4 7MM Bolts that are visible around the Instrument Cluster.
14. In the back of your Instrument Cluster there is a large 2 Inch by 1 Inch Electrical Block connection. The electrical block connector are the set of wires that run everything on your instrument panel; so use caution when removing so as to not damage any wiring or connectors. Using your larger Flathead screwdriver; pry back the connection and your instrument cluster should lift out of the housing.
15. You have completed Part 1 of replacing your odometer gears.
(Links for picture break down)
1991-1994:
Saturn Faq
Parts 2- How to get inside your Instrument Cluster
Tools you will need:
Flathead Screwdriver
Putty Knife
Phillips Head Screwdriver
1. Label all Appropriate Light/Lamp Locations.
2. Remove each lamp carefully (these bulbs will be reused). Twist/Turn and then Pull. Turn Counterclockwise 1/8 turn and then pull out of socket.
3. Inspect for Burnt out lamps, set lamps aside on appropriate home created lamp location sheet. Lamp sizes are as follows: Blue=73, Gray=74 You CAN find these at Advance Auto Parts, but they are pricey ($2.50 a package!)
4. Begin removing SILVER Screws from back electrical circuit board film. There will be 8-10 Silver Screws.
5. Remove Circuit Board Film. BE CAREFUL! To Remove, slowly pull up from guide posts and pry up with putty knife. Slowly move top portion of Circuit Film until it slides out. Continue working with putty Knife.
6. Remove Black Screws from outer perimeters to remove Warning Light Display.
7. Work putty Knife or a medium size flat blade screwdriver to Electrical Contacts for Speedo/Tach/Odometer to completely remove Electronic Circuit Film. Each of the three silver electrical connections for the Speedo/Tach/Odometer have pins that connect into a black receptacle under the film. The pins must be pried out of the connectors (perpendicular to the film, male/female connector) to separate them from the respective instrument and remove the film.
8. Using a finger, push tabs for instrument cluster face plate down and forward to remove.
9. Using a standard screwdriver-Begin to Pry up on Left Corner of Faceplate and PULL but be gentle. There will be a lot of loud crunching, but do not be alarmed, it will take time, but it will come off.
10. Once you have removed the faceplate remove the screws that hold the Odometer Gear Cluster in place.
11. Remove Odometer Gear Cluster
12. Remove 2 Screws to remove Odometer Gear Motor (Note: electrical connector faces towards the front so the electrical wires can attach.
12. Remove Odometer Gears to reveal Broken 25 tooth gear and 15 tooth large pod.
The white plastic in the above photo is the pod.
13. Use shop compressed air, thoroughly blow out unit. Inspect for any small traces let by the old gear on the motor shaft and gear housing and remove. Even a tiny piece left over will cause the odometer to not work after reinstalled, so look closely.
14. Wipe old grease from plastic housing and motor shaft. The old grease can also cause the new gears to not spin freely and not allow the odometer to work properly.
15. Install the new gears and then reinstall the motor (no grease is need as our gears are self lubricating)
16. Wiggle the one digit of the odometer to make sure that the gears are meshing properly.
17. Install is reverse of removal.
